polardetective

Feb 02, 2010 The Grizz! About 8 years ago I. The Grizzly TSC-10L in great shape. Mitre gauge, dado insert, even the original operators manual! Very well cared for. Grizzly Table Saw – TSC-10L 1987 Grizzly Table Saw. If you get the manual for the G1022 from Grizzly’s site, that is close enough for all the adjustments for.

About 8 years ago I moved from one home to another and had not quite gotten my shop all moved (the BIG stuff - table saw, jointer, band saw, etc.). I bribed some help, hooked up my trailer, went back only to discover that my shop had been broken into the night before! Since then I have used my jobsite table saw (been through 3 so far), folding them up and going from workshop to job site and back I got so used to it, I stopped shopping for a permanent shop saw. I stumbled across this one on ebay last month. The Grizzly TSC-10L in great shape, with ALL original parts including blade guard, mitre gauge, dado insert, even the original operators manual!

Very well cared for, a little minor surface rust on the table (15 minutes with some WD and steel wool) and a worn belt (10 bucks at the local Ace). It even came with a couple nice blades, a featherboard, push stick.. OK, so it's no Unisaw, and it's 22 years old, but it cuts great (even with the stock fence - I'll be working on that), has plenty of power, and only cost me about $250 (round trip to Dearborn included)! And my jobsite table saw is back in my tool trailer where it belongs! Loan out your tools, your guns, or your motorcycle. He has his own blade now?

NIce job on the dog, Good Boy, Zed! Caution: My first cut on my new 5HP Powermatic 68, 12' was a piece of knotty pine from a crate. Rip cut, no splitter or blade guard. The wood closed up on the back of the blade and it exploded across the room. That sucker will launch wood! Safety Glasses!

Always use a splitter when ripping lumber from trees. Some times it's under internal stress and the saw kerf will close back up causing a kickback.

I picked up an old grizzly TSC-10L from craigslist. It was used by a nice fellow who didn’t abuse it but it has had better days. I’m finding the blade is not parallel with the miter slot. So I look in the manual he gave me ( looks like it was copied in the 90’s when copiers were not that great ) and nothing in it about adjusting the blade.

Then I got a PDF manual for a Grizzly G1022 and it does have a section on blade adjustment. But to my astonishment the procedure is to completely disassemble the saw! This must be why the guy had removed three bolts holding the table to the cabinet and skewed the table top over.

My question is if this is fact? Fundacion Vista Para Todos Quito Telefonos Inalambricos. Do I actually have to completely strip down the saw just to do this?

Most contractor saws are adjusted in the same manner as the G1022, but normally you can reach the bolts through the back of the cabinet. If you loosen three of them, and move the trunnions in the right direction (the one tight one keeps things from getting too catywampus, you can usually get it zero’d in. Having it upside down as Grizzly suggested seems to make the job just about impossible.

But, there may be a reason for doing it that wayI’ve not seen that model first hand. But to answer your question: generally you can do this from the back, you might have to remove the motor but that’s not that big a deal.

I’d also second Bill’s suggestion to call Griz, their CS is pretty good though it depends (sometimes) on who you wind up talking too. -- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress. Idm V6.01.6b Full Aio Autocrack Hypnox. Fred Hargis, Thank you. Very helpful. I was hoping for that. Ok, now I was able to reach them through the back but I’ve now run into another issue.

After spending about an hour trying to get it aligned I have finally discovered that one of the bolts that secure the rear of the trunion where it bolts into the table won’t move over far enough to get the blade aligned – it’s between 1/32 and 1/16 off. Looking carefully at the holes in the bracket (not the holes in the top that are taped for the bolts) I can see that one is drilled about 1/16” closer to the edge of the bracket that the other. If it were in the same position on the bracket as the one on the other side I’d be able to move the rear of the trunion over 1/16” and it would line up the blade.